Until recently, this vitamin A derivative could do no wrong. It was hailed as the best anti-ageing ingredient around and any side effects were simply the price to pay for a smooth, wrinkle-free forehead. Now, though, as many start to question some of the major drawbacks and an anti-retinol movement takes shape, a wave of innovative retinol alternatives have cropped up, like Elemis’ Pro-Collagen Renewal Serum.
I’ve tried and tested natural alternatives like bakuchiol in the past but finding a formula that’s kind to sensitive skin and delivers the powerful, wrinkle-busting results synonymous with retinol isn’t easy. So I spoke to Noella Gabriel, cofounder of Elemis, to learn more about the brand’s new retinol alternative and exactly what sets it apart. I’ve unpicked the best things about retinol (and the worst) and explored who exactly should consider switching to a retinol alternative, and why. I found myself a pretty game-changing product while I was at it, too…
Let’s start from the beginning. Retinol is a type of retinoid – a family of compounds derived from vitamin A – and tends to be the most common one used in skincare. It has long been considered the gold standard for its ability to induce cellular renewal: it works by encouraging the skin cells on the outermost layer of skin (called keratinocytes) to turn over at a faster rate, causing new cells to generate. This helps boost collagen production, reduce fine lines and reveal the healthy, smooth skin beneath. Beyond this, retinol can help reduce acne, minimise pigmentation and reduce the appearance of pores, too.
Unfortunately, the list of downsides can be just as long… For starters, retinol can cause initial redness, irritation, peeling and sensitivity in the wrong hands. Most people are also overusing it, choosing the wrong percentage and using it alongside harsh acids, increasing skin sensitivity. But the real reason it’s getting so much backlash? Many of us want to strip back our skincare routines and retinol requires yet more ingredients and steps to help the skin recover. “The main objective [of retinol] is to accelerate cell turnover, however, when it accelerates too fast it really dries out the skin,” says Noella Gabriel, cofounder of Elemis. Similarly, as it sheds the top layer of skin, your skin becomes overexposed and more sensitive to sunlight, she tells me – something I found out the hard way after trying retinol for the first time: my skin peeled around the lip, turned red and flaky and I still have the scars to show for it today.
From rosehip oil to bakuchiol, retinol alternatives are on the rise in a big way. Not only a sensible swap for anyone with sensitive skin, they offer a great alternative for those with rosacea, impaired skin barriers, eczema, people who use fillers, Botox and peels and even hardcore retinol users, says Gabriel, since they don’t bring about any of the side effects associated with retinol. Better yet, each one comes with its own set of skin benefits: bakuchiol, for instance, has anti-inflammatory properties which can help calm acne-prone skin, while antioxidant-rich rosehip oil helps reduce hyperpigmentation. In short, everyone should – and could – consider a retinol alternative. They work for every skin type without causing any sensitivity and are safe to use even when pregnant*.
Personally, my main issue with retinol – dramatic skin reaction aside – is just how much it dries out your skin. I need a formula that doesn’t make my skin feel tight or leave my face feeling parched the next day, which helps my sensitive skin rather than hinders it. Retinol alternatives rule out having to overload your skin with additional products to combat the stress and side effects of retinol, so if you’re looking to streamline your routine, they’re a no-brainer.
*Every pregnancy is unique, however, so please seek advice from your medical practitioner.
As a beauty journalist, I have probably tried every natural alternative under the sun and while I can’t deny the glow-enhancing result of rosehip oil or the soothing benefits of bakuchiol, I am yet to find one that visibly reduces the fine lines creeping up on my forehead and around my eyes. That is, until I tried Elemis’ Pro-Collagen Renewal Serum. From the science-backed formula to the ingredients list, Elemis’ skin-loving serum is especially high-tech in that it delivers clinically proven*, retinol-like results – all without the irritation.
A brand founded on the importance of protecting skin health, that’s exactly what this next-generation retinol alternative does. “The key with this serum is that we wanted great actives that deliver results, but we had to keep skin hydration and skin health at the forefront,” says Gabriel. “It delivers retinol-like benefits – from targeting expression lines and wrinkles, improving clarity, sun damage and firmness to reducing pores – but without any of the drawbacks.” Unlike having to build up your tolerance and wait 12 weeks to see results, Pro-Collagen Renewal Serum is proven to improve elasticity and reduce wrinkles in just 14 days. The trifecta? It helps visibly improve fine lines, drenches the skin with hydration and doesn’t increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight.
*Independent clinical trials 2020. Results based on 37 people over four weeks.
Elemis Pro – Collagen Renewal Serum, $, available at Elemis
A smoothing, firming and hydrating powerhouse, the secret of this serum’s effectiveness lies in the unique ingredients. Paraben- and mineral oil-free, the breakthrough formula includes natural retinol extracts like stevia leaf (and the stalk) and alfalfa which have been in vivo tested to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve firmness and stimulate collagen*. “Like retinol, stevia leaf promotes cellular resistance to oxidative stress, helping to minimise the degradation of essential ECM (Extracellular Matrix) proteins, which keep the skin looking young and plump,” explains Gabriel. “Alfalfa not only reduces the depth of wrinkles but actually reduces the length and number of wrinkles too.”
Like the rest of the Pro-Collagen range, the formula is powered by marine algae complexes, which are key to skin-plumping hydration. Red microalgae and padina pavonica are full of vitamins, minerals and polysaccharides and work to prevent moisture loss and boost hydration in the skin, meaning you can forget about that post-retinol dryness from here on out.
*Independent clinical trials 2020. Results based on 37 people over four weeks.
One of the best things about this skin-kind serum for me is how easily it slots into my existing routine. Unlike other acids or harsh ingredients, I don’t need to worry about the other ingredients I’m using or compromise on other steps in my routine. I simply dispense a few drops into my hands and gently massage over my face in upward strokes before following up with the rest of my regular skincare routine including daily SPF. Easy as.
Personally, I’ve been using this serum every other day to give my overly sensitive skin a little more time to adapt. However, if your focus is ageing, “this is a product you can use every day, twice a day,” says Gabriel. If you are using AHAs, BHAs or any strong peels, she does advise slowly introducing the serum into your routine to let your skin adjust to the new formula.
R29 reader offer! Spend £60 at elemis.com and apply the code REFINERY29 to receive a 3-piece gift including Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm 20g, Pro-Collagen Moisture Essence 28ml and Pro-Collagen Marine Cream SPF 30 15ml. Worth £51.00. T&C’s here.
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