Every year, thousands of us pursue an elusive, sun-kissed glow. With bronzed skin so often billed as a marker of good health, it’s no wonder the global self-tanning products market is expected to grow to $1.58 billion by 2029. No longer the stuff of streaky orange nightmares, self-tan has come a long way; tanning waters provide a seamless finish and bronzing drops add a subtle radiance to your face. Despite these new and innovative formulas, some people still look to sunbeds to achieve tanned skin.
The first commercial tanning bed is said to have been introduced into beauty salons in the 1970s. Today, there are 57,283 tanning salons in the US according to market research database Ibis World, and approximately 7.8 million adults in the US engage in indoor tanning. A survey by Melanoma Focus found that 28% of British people have used sunbeds, and in the UK, there are around 3,000 to 5,000 tanning shops as reported by Active Salon, a company that provides software for tanning businesses.
The ultraviolet (UV) radiation emitted by sunbeds combines mainly UVA (which causes the skin to tan and is associated with premature ageing and mutations that can lead to skin cancer) with smaller doses of UVB (responsible for causing sunburn). The NHS reports that sunbeds discharge greater doses of UV rays than the tropical midday sun, and though many people enjoy the physical results of a perceived ‘healthy’ tan, the irony is that it’s actually a sign of skin damage. What’s more, sunbeds carry serious health risks.
Cancer Research UK reports that there are around 2,300 melanoma skin cancer deaths in the UK every year. In the US, 7,990 people are expected to die of melanoma in 2023, according to the American Cancer Society. The International Agency for Research on Cancer has identified artificial ultraviolet (UV) radiation as a class 1 carcinogen. Using a sunbed can increase the risk of melanoma by up to 20%. The fact that so many people still use artificial tanning devices in spite of the dicey prospects is a cause for concern among doctors and dermatologists. And young people are most at risk, says the NHS, which reports that people who are frequently exposed to UV rays before age 25 have a greater chance of developing skin cancer later in life. In fact, the Skin Cancer Foundation states that just one indoor tanning session before age 35 increases your risk of developing life-threatening melanoma by 75%.
It isn’t just a bronzed glow that people want from sunbeds. If you have acne or psoriasis, or suffer from a vitamin D deficiency, you may have come across information (most likely unregulated) that lists sunbed use as an appropriate solution — but the experts argue differently. “There are no health benefits to using sunbeds at home or in a tanning salon,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk. “Vitamin D can be obtained through diet or supplementation so this argument doesn’t stand up.”
Dr Kluk reports that most dermatologists will see patients in their clinics who have developed skin cancer or premature skin ageing as a direct effect of using sunbeds. The serious skin cancer risk is why it’s paramount to keep a close eye on any moles you have on your body. “Concern arises when any new or existing mole increases in size or changes in shape or colour, particularly if darker colours start to appear,” says Dr Kluk. “Persistent itching or bleeding from a mole are also indicators that an urgent visit to the GP or dermatologist is needed.” Dr Kluk believes that sunbeds should be outlawed, as does Refinery29. That’s why we’ve launched a petition calling on the government to ban sunbeds once and for all. You can sign it right here.
Many of us have a complicated relationship with sunbeds and despite the well-documented hazards, countless people still choose to use them. Ahead, Refinery29 asks five current sunbed users and reformed tanners to reveal exactly how they feel about them. (It’s worth noting as you read: a ‘base tan’ is sun damage, pure and simple.)
Alexandra, 22
I started using sunbeds when I was about 20 years old and continued to do so until just under a year ago, around my 32nd birthday.
I used them because I thought I looked much more attractive with a tan. My face is prone to eczema, which meant red, flaky skin – and that made me feel incredibly insecure. If my skin was much darker than usual, then it didn’t look so blotchy and red. I guess it just made me feel so much more confident. It also seemed to help clear it up.
Once I started using sunbeds, I quickly began to use them more frequently. I would use a sunbed several times a week, sometimes even daily, and have been known to use a sunbed twice in one day. So as not to get caught out, I used to alternate between different tanning shops, where I was using over the recommended amount (2-3 sessions a week according to the Sunbed Association).
I eventually stopped using sunbeds because I noticed how much my skin had aged. I now have sun spots, which are only usually seen in much older ladies. It’s incredibly upsetting, especially as my skin is now always dry. Even though I make an effort to moisturise daily, I feel like sunbeds have made me look older. As a result, I’ve become obsessed with anti-ageing products, and I’ve started spending a significant amount more on my moisturisers, serums and cleansers.
To be honest, when I was using them, I didn’t worry about the risks. I never burned so I thought I was fine. Now I am much more aware of the risks. I don’t know anyone who has had any health implications as a result of using sunbeds, but I do worry about the extent of the damage I’ve caused. It might be years before I find out if I have done serious damage.
Isobel, 32
When I was younger, I liked the fact that no one really asked me questions before each session. I was always advised to reduce the number of minutes I spent on the bed if the bulbs had not long been changed, but no other information, like personal or health details, was ever discussed.
Then, I never gave a single thought to skin cancer. Now it’s starting to concern me. My friend very recently had a cancer scare after spotting an abnormal mole, and because her doctor said it was most likely due to her excessive sunbed use, I’ve been cutting down.
Don’t get me wrong – at the time it frightened me into never wanting to use them again, but I have to admit that I still go on a sunbed in the run-up to a special occasion. I visited a tanning salon before my wedding earlier this year and it made a massive difference in how I felt in my dress and how I appeared in my photos – I looked healthy and glowing. While I don’t think a tan makes me look slimmer, it gives me a similar confidence boost as if I were to lose a couple of pounds, without having to make much effort at all.
Those are my main reasons, really. I have some friends who go on a sunbed before a holiday to give them a ‘base tan’ but I think that’s pointless. If you spend too much time in the sun, you’re going to burn regardless – you don’t have to be a genius to work that one out.
Marianna, 29
I was talking about it with a beauty therapist friend one day and she suggested giving sunbeds a go, as she knew a few clients who used them regularly to keep their skin from breaking out as much. At the time, my acne was really getting me down (I’d tried medication, lots of different skincare regimes and made so many visits to my GP – all useless) so I thought I’d give sunbeds a go. The thought of skin cancer or wrinkles didn’t occur to me – I just wanted my acne gone.
I started going every week, beginning with 15 minutes, then taking it up to 30 minutes each time. I still get a few whiteheads from time to time but I’ve found that the bigger, more painful spots are now few and far between. One thing I have noticed, though, is that any pigmented acne scars I have left behind are getting darker and harder to shift. Since then, I’ve limited myself to one or two sessions, once or twice a month. I also made the mistake of introducing retinol into my skincare routine and coupling it with a sunbed session recently. My skin did not react well and I won’t be doing that again.
If anything, lying on a sunbed gives me an hour of uninterrupted time where I can just let my mind wander. I feel like it’s actually becoming less of an aesthetic thing for me and more about chilling out.
I initially used them on the run-up to a holiday but my visits became more regular once I had a taste for it. I’d say maybe a few times a month during spring and summer. Not exactly excessive, but enough! I told myself that if I got my skin used to the sun before a holiday, I wouldn’t burn, which I think was actually effective. I have Irish skin, so burning for me is definitely a ‘thing’, but I do tend to go quite dark (post-red phase) in the sun and wanted to skip the faff of looking like a lobster.
I was aware of the risks of sunbeds, but I told myself that because I wasn’t going on them for a really long period of time, I’d be fine. My sister was actually advised to use sunbeds for her vitamin D deficiency, which made me totally fine with using them.
I didn’t keep my sunbed use a secret. I used to go with friends from home and also friends at university. I did initially keep it hidden from my parents, but I soon realised I can’t keep secrets from that pair! I never used them at home, always in a salon – I had a loyalty card and everything.
I don’t know anyone who has had health implications from sunbeds. SPF is something I’m now really conscious of. I don’t use sunbeds anymore and when on holiday I’m normally all about the sunscreen – unless I’ve been drinking rosé by the pool! I’ve also recently started using facial SPF daily, as I think I’ve always been quite naive about sun damage in general.
Meg, 25
I was about 15, working part-time in a Levi’s shop and one of the older ‘cooler’ girls who used to do a sunbed every day on her lunch break dragged me across the road to try one. She insisted it would be the best prep for my summer holidays.
I remember the smell hit me when I went in – what is that smell?
I stripped, put on my swimming goggles and assumed the position. When the lights came on it felt cool for a while, like I was in Blade Runner, but buck naked. After about four minutes I started to feel a bit wobbly. I pressed the panic button and the woman at reception came in. I stepped out and actually fainted, wearing nowt but the scratchy disposable panties, at her feet.
I can safely say that I never went on a sunbed again after that, and never will. I have fully accepted my pale Irish skin and wish everyone else would be happy with theirs too.
If not, there is always the reasonable, and most importantly, non-carcinogenic way to get a tan – from a bottle.
Katy, 37
Alexandra, 22
“Before COVID, I would go on hot holidays three to five times a year and sustain a nice ‘base tan’ all year round. But considering I’ve been on fewer holidays, I decided to start using sunbeds before heading away on my first hot trip in a while. My first sunbed was in January last year and I’ve been hooked ever since. The results were instant and it was a huge confidence boost. As a midsize girl, I always feel the need to make an extra effort to make myself look good when I’m going to be walking around in fewer clothes than usual.
I try to go twice a week, generally in the run-up to a holiday. Or before something special like a birthday, I’ll often go every other day for two weeks. I do sometimes give myself a break, for example after a holiday for a week or two. I used to fake tan but I found that it was too faffy and left my tan looking visibly fake.
Going back to fake tan isn’t an option for me. I am aware of the risks of using sunbeds. I even get targeted on TikTok with people who are now facing the consequences of using them. I guess I just hope I’ll be a lucky one. I always promise myself ‘one more holiday’ or ‘after this wedding, I’ll stop’ but for me, having a tan is like an addiction. [Editor’s note: A 2017 study conducted by researchers at Georgetown University Medical Center found that 22% of women who tan show signs of tanning dependency.] It does sometimes worry me and it’s definitely something my family worries about, too.
I know I will give [up sunbeds] at some point but your early 20s are hard. It’s not just the result I like anymore; it’s the nine minutes of peace, freedom and switching off from the world. I lie there imagining I’m on a beach, not a sunbed. It’s a mood-boosting reset for me: I have my routine sunbed and then a Coke Zero in the car! Right now, I think an alternative way to get an even, long-lasting tan would be the only thing to stop me using sunbeds. But I’m kind of hoping that I’ll grow out of my need for a tan to make me feel good about myself.”
Claire*, 28
“I probably go on about six sunbeds a year and they’re usually before occasions such as weddings or holidays in order to achieve a ‘base tan’. This month, before I flew out on my holiday, I had booked a couple of sunbeds for six minutes at a time. When I’m on a sunbed, I always cover my moles with plasters because I think it’s a little bit safer for them. [Editor’s note: Dr Penelope Pratsou, consultant dermatologist and British Skin Foundation spokesperson, tells R29: ‘The belief that covering up moles will prevent skin cancer is not only incorrect but dangerous, as it can falsely reassure people who might continue to regularly sunbathe or use sunbeds. Up to eight out of 10 melanomas arise as new lesions on the skin rather than from changed moles.] I only have two moles but they’re medium size, like a 5p coin. I’m fully aware of the risks associated with sunbeds but I don’t worry about them because I don’t feel like I have enough [sessions] to be at risk. I don’t think there are any other benefits to sunbeds other than tanning. After this holiday, I don’t plan on using sunbeds [throughout the year]. Not because I’m anti-sunbeds but because I don’t have any plans. Nothing would really stop me from using sunbeds in the future.”
*Name has been changed
Jaime, 44
“I personally love how I look — and feel — when my skin has a bit of colour. It’s vain, to be sure, and it stems from a strained relationship I have with my body (even still). But I feel skinnier, more toned and more relaxed when I’m tanned. In my late teens and early to mid 20s, that tan came from tanning beds and tanning outside.
I strove to be tanned pretty much year-round. Friends would joke that I was giving off Oompa Loompa vibes but I didn’t care — I thought I looked better. I was aware [of the risks] but naively so. It was a calculated risk that flickered in my mind, and one I was willing to take. I wasn’t thinking one, five, 10 years down the road. I was thinking, How good will I look on Saturday night?
When I was first going to tanning beds, you would set the timer on the bed yourself and could lie there for 30 minutes or more. I shudder just thinking about it. Now, I am the SPF police (for myself, my husband, my kids, anyone who will listen) and you won’t see me outside without a hat, sunglasses or sunscreen on.
I’ve been a longtime beauty publicist and in my late 20s I represented a top dermatologist. The sun protection and skin cancer education I gleaned from them was enlightening. I paid more attention to just how harmful sun exposure was, how damaging tanning beds were for skin health, how common skin cancer is and how at risk you are from even the smallest exposure to sun without ample protection. At that point, I had also developed melasma on my cheeks and upper lip from my years of tanning beds and not being diligent with SPF when tanning outdoors.
It was about this time that I started working with Rita Hazan Salon, which had Anna Stankiewicz, an airbrush spray tan artist, on staff. That’s what fully converted me from tanning beds. I was sceptical that a spray tan would have the same look and feel as a tanning bed tan but I never looked back. I also started diligently applying SPF, especially during pool and beach days. Beauty may seem superficial but it has an incredibly powerful effect that can change your life.”
Katie, 23
“I do about 50 sunbeds a year in total. I’m naturally really pale so I like to be tanned as it makes me feel like I have a glow, and I feel that my outfits look better with a tan. I have eczema so whenever I use fake tan it clings to the dry patches and irritates my skin, whereas I’ve found that sunbeds can actually improve my eczema and give me a natural colour. [Editor’s note: Dermatologists consulted for this package say that a controlled course of narrowband UVB phototherapy is not only safe but effective, resulting in eczema improvement in up to 70% of patients. By contrast, sunbeds deliver indiscriminate amounts and UV wavelengths, especially UVA light, which significantly predisposes the user to the development of melanoma, a serious type of skin cancer.] I don’t know if this is a medical benefit or just something that works for me. Sunbeds definitely boost my mood, though!
I also like to use sunbeds before going abroad as I have a tendency to burn in the sun, so a couple of sunbeds beforehand preps my skin and gives me a ‘base colour’ so I can avoid burning. I’m aware of the risks of sunbeds but I don’t massively worry about them. In my eyes, there are far more dangerous things in the world that I don’t take part in, like drugs and smoking. Sunbeds are my one vice. I don’t abuse the use of sunbeds and I cover up any scars or tattoos, so I think I make my use of them as safe as possible.”
Georgie*, 25
“I use sunbeds to get a ‘base tan’ before going on holiday, purely so that I don’t end up being burnt on the first couple of days. Getting a bit of a colour beforehand also gives me more self-confidence. I’m very aware of the risks of sunbeds but it doesn’t worry me because I know that I can stop at any time if they did cause an issue. I believe going on sunbeds does lift your mood and I think it impacts self-confidence, especially if you’re someone who struggles with body confidence in the summertime or on holiday, for example. The only thing that would make me consider not using sunbeds in the future is health reasons, whether they’re affecting me or someone close to me.”
Editor’s note: The Skin Cancer Foundation reports that while UV radiation kickstarts production of endorphins, it is not an effective solution for treating conditions such as seasonal affective disorder (SAD). Instead, the organisation suggests exploring visible light therapy, which harnesses a controlled light box and doesn’t expose you to damaging UVA rays.
*Name has been changed
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